Walking by a London park earlier this year, Sophia Kokosalaki came upon walls of colorful street art. She snapped photos and began thinking about skate parks, Nineties imagery and the distinctive style of that decade. The resulting Diesel Black Gold collection emerged from under a skate ramp replete with live skateboarders. Backstage, Kokosalaki said she didn’t want the references to be too literal, thus the first half of the lineup was traditional Diesel fare with sharply tailored and military-ish jackets, barely there miniskirts and a bevy of leather.
Things got more playful as the show progressed: Kokosalaki’s graffiti photo was worked into a print for several denim looks, netting was shown on a peekaboo dress and flirty skirt (all the better to show off the models’ skivvies) and colorful scuba fabric appeared on the upturned cuffs of Neoprene double-face jeans. The spirited collection was wearable, full of attitude and lots of fun.