The sun, the sand, the sea, the sky. As inspirations go, this collection could lead in many different directions. Donna Karan made it into something otherworldly, and the results were breathtaking. After her play with men’s wear tailoring for fall, this was a romantic Donna, a pure treat, with mesmerizing colors cold-dyed to feign nature.
Karan set the tone with the first few pieces: exquisite separates in muted hues. These included several folded jackets over full skirts, and empire silhouettes, such as the oyster linen and jersey dress and jacket that opened the show. It was lovely, as was just about everything else that followed. Throughout, Karan played with volume through construction. A floating transparent georgette dress almost cascaded down from a stricter jersey bralike top.
For evening, Karan draped several gorgeous dresses; a seafoam embroidered and sequined gown drifted by like a captivating underwater creature. It was elegantly rendered and felt poetic, almost ethereal, but the collection’s dreamy nature only served to mask Karan’s perfect sense of control. Almost every piece was elaborately constructed, draped, tiered and tweaked, but the overall effect remained beautiful and feather-light.
Speaking of feathers, who needs them when shredded raffia can look so charming?