Michael Kors’ spring sojourn took him to his self-proclaimed second home. “We’re West Coast dreaming,” he said in a preview. Rather than go beachy-casual, Kors looked to the midcentury architectural geniuses Lautner and Neutra, funneling their geometric bravado through his own optimistic viewpoint. “I like it half full,” he reminded. In other words, he played into the season’s emerging Mod moment with bold color and a burst of graphic zest. And what’s more optimistic than a beautiful blue sky? A beautiful blue sky photo printed on pants. Any girl who can handle buoyant clouds floating across her posterior must be happy.
As always, Kors opened with a girl-guy pair, both in striped sweaters, hers a red-and-navy bodysuit paired with a crisp, zipped-to-the-waist navy skirt. This led into a parade of audacious vibrance: a shift in red, white and blue blocks that popped; a striped sweater over pants that were khaki coming and bright red going; a swimsuit in why-decide stripes — red and navy on top, green and navy on the bottom. Worked in among the sportif were some just-retro-enough lady looks, mostly sleek, structured coats, suits and dresses in bright white and brighter solids (red, green, canary yellow). The only quiet interlude came at night in a trio of languid black crepe gowns with glam cutouts.
Virtually everything looked polished and appealing, projecting that wonderful, real kind of sexy that’s intrinsic to Kors’ work; he doesn’t do runway-only. However, in this era of the six-minute show, he might consider leaving something to the imagination — like looks 55 to 65. Still, too much fashion of a good thing is better than too little.
Conversely, men’s is a multilayered business for Kors right now, and his truncated offering left the viewer wanting more. The preppy motifs have been done by other designers, and although the geometric color-blocking and bright pop colors were on-trend and exciting, the clothes on a whole felt very young. While the fitted suits added the touch of gentleman’s worldliness that Kors has been known for in the past, the men’s wear is still seeking its own identity.