Now in its third season, Balmain’s secondary line, Pierre Balmain, entered the New York schedule via an online runway show that actually took place in Beijing in May. The move wasn’t the only way the label distinguished itself from Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain collection. It also took a much softer approach than its edgier sibling. Riffs on French Riviera glamour led to silhouettes with a Fifties couture touch rendered in contemporary materials: A fitted jean jacket topped a full skirt, while a boxy eyelet shirt appeared with ikat-print cigarette pants.

For men, the lineup included slim-fitted suits, chic cardigans and a matching shirt and shorts in bold polka dots — just right for a modern-day Mr. Ripley.

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