Few women — not even runway models and others of the genetically blessed ilk — have wardrobes limited to cut-to-the-body, hourglass dresses. Thus, after a series of in-store appearances that gave her some face time with actual customers (beyond Hollywood pals), Victoria Beckham decided that the time had come to advance her collection. “I wanted to look at the design criteria synonymous to the Victoria Beckham brand and explore that in a different way — push it a little bit further,” Beckham said during a preview. She accomplished this smartly for spring, most notably by adding chic, tailored separates. From a minimalist baseline, she worked interesting details into good-looking coats and jackets, slim pants and crisp shirts, the perfect ease of their combinations showing the cool hand of Beckham’s new stylist, Joe McKenna.

Yet Beckham still loves a great dress. Here, she broadened her range with some that skewed casual, including trompe l’oeil charmers that feigned separates. She also incorporated feminine touches via lingerie details — bra tops and straps peeking out from under dresses — and various types of lace. All were lovely, though the curvy white uniform dress swerved way too close to Raf Simons’ memorable lineup for Jil Sander last spring. Luckily, it was the lone such misstep. Beckham still offered plenty of the alluring curvature that she’s made her own and that her customer loves.

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