Prized for her tailoring, Ann Demeulemeester was in thrall of flou for her spring show, a torpid parade of trailing chiffon sleeves, flapping ecclesiastic panels and billowing, featherweight jersey.
Not that the clothes were wimpy. In fact, a heroic mood thrummed through this darkly futuristic collection. It opened with black minidresses encircled with thick black leather wrestling belts, bringing Wonder Woman to mind, and it climaxed with monastic black gowns whose wispy panels were anchored by sculptural harnesses and breastplates.
As ever, the clothes had dignity and were beautifully crafted. Although few in number, the jackets were striking — often sleeveless, always elongated — and languid in lustrous silks. They were mostly black, relieved occasionally by silver or deep purple. Shorter jackets were sliced up the back, and the sleeves could be zipped open up the top.
While a bit dramatic for real life, some of these outfits could work in a stylish science-fiction movie.