In just a few seasons, Olivier Rousteing has demonstrated a tendency for ultrasexy silhouettes. He continued the notion into spring with an early-Nineties play via bold patterns and exaggerated shapes, particularly with strong shoulders. His version of the look, however, was rendered with a heavy hand and an aggressive sexuality that often went over the top.

Backstage before the show, Rousteing said he was going for a “Latin sensuality,” citing Cuba and singer Sade among inspirations.

While there is no denying that the young designer’s workmanship was exquisite, i.e. the crystal beading on jackets and the elaborate basket weaves for minidresses, it often left heads spinning.

Rousteing amped up the volume for many looks. Some, like the boxy jackets and dresses, had an awkward fit. Then there was the recurring harlequin motif, sometimes bedazzled in crystals. It had limited range, unless a woman is thinking of auditioning for the Ringling Bros. Even then, the job’s not in the bag.

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