Evolving his recent collaboration with Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari’s Toilet Paper magazine, Costume National’s Ennio Capasa used large printed panels — an aloe leaf and bird wing being snipped with scissors — as his main visuals. They added an arty touch to the collection, which was otherwise defined by the designer’s penchant for asymmetry and deconstruction. “When I started in the Nineties, the message of minimalism was very innovative,” Capasa said backstage before the show. “Now we need another minimalism. More technique, more ‘couture,’ more elegant.”

For spring, he took that idea into several unusual directions, sometimes landing him on the awkward side. Capasa overlapped and cut together different pieces of fabrics for looks like a tuxedo with a top that was half jacket, half bustier, and a short dress that draped around the torso and ended with a single pant leg. They were strange.

Capasa largely worked in a black palette, but the few colored exits — particularly the fuchsia and red combinations — felt the freshest.

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