There’s always a nomadic undercurrent to the handsome clothes of this Croatian-born, Paris-based designer. For spring, crisp, white judo blazers and kimono-sleeve windbreakers in leather and cotton gabardine winked at the Orient.

But this collection saw Damir Doma move in a sexier, more urbane direction with leather biker vests cinched tightly at the waist, and jersey tank dresses with handkerchief hems and cutouts around the hips.

Citing collage as an inspiration, he mixed military khaki with lustrous turquoise silks, at times recalling the work of Haider Ackermann.

Doma used the runway to unveil an eyewear line, done in collaboration with Berlin firm Mykita. The round, goggle-like shapes in stainless steel and horn were worn with neck straps, giving his models the impression they were headed for adventure.

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