That Elie Saab chose “heiress” as his spring theme is not a surprising move, given that the designer knows how to woo the social set. The woman he channeled this season is multifaceted; as Saab put it in the show notes, she could be “an artist, a photographer, a blogger or a philanthropist.”
With that in mind, he rendered this collection with a more youthful vibe than in seasons past. Several fluid dresses in a bright, Rorschach-like print had a casual elegance that felt fresh. There was also some appealing tailoring: a button-down shirt with matching pants, and a sculpted jacket, shorts and handbag, all worked in a strong blue tone. While they were heavy on monochromatics, the looks had a working-girl sensibility — she doesn’t just rely on a trust fund.
Still, plenty of Saab’s more expected eveningwear was mixed in, including embellished formfitting lace dresses — both short and sexy and long and slinky — in nude, turquoise and fiery red. The strongest ones came in the finale: gowns in a fine lace with ribbons placed around the lower torso and waist to accentuate a more sensual silhouette. They added a romantic touch.