The first model out sliced through the incense-choked space in a stark black princess-line gown, her veiled face and tall, rectangular headdress telegraphing the medieval period — and those deadly creatures in “Alien” films.

Gareth Pugh visited the Middle Ages and pared back his dark futurism to regal effect. This was a grown-up and polished collection, and the gowns were particularly arresting: plain and billowing in liquid jersey the color of tin, with languid scarf necklines or hems in a frayed red fabric that brought to mind pashminas.

There were extreme fashions, including coats and dresses with jutting portrait necklines that looked suitable for a coronation ceremony in Tokyo circa 2086, and not much else. Bell-bottom pants spooled out into sinister-looking pointed trains.

Other looks were chic in any century, including a languid ivory tailcoat with frayed edges, and a series of skating dresses composed of delicate bands of gossamer fabric. Pugh should let his armor down more often.

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