Giambattista Valli’s front row is always a telling sign of the social strata for whom he designs. This season’s included the usual gaggle of Brandolinis, along with Chiara Clemente and Lee Radziwill. Such guests also signal how his aesthetic cuts through age demographics with ease — no simple feat, but he largely accomplished it again for spring.

The first exit — a white-collared gray vest teamed with matching pants — suggested that Valli might be branching out of his pretty dress comfort zone. Yet the next look was a white floral appliquéd shift, sweet and innocent in its appeal. He continued to switch back and forth between feminine and tailored, with some good looks on both sides.

The designer played with fashion’s current fascination with transparency, here offering sheer dresses and skirts over matching panties. He accented many with a solid panel at the hem, such as the embellished gold one on a white shift. There was a slight severity to some of these looks — he may want to consider linings for his more sophisticated clientele — but Valli balanced them with pretty crochet lace numbers.

As for the crystal beading, it looked heavy on a day suit but worked well on a chic short-sleeve gold coat.

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