Belgian designer Glenn Martens is confirming his position as a young talent to watch. Despite a creepy choice of venue — the chapel and crypt where the remains of King Louis XVI and queen Marie Antoinette were buried for 21 years— Martens’ lineup hit a softer note than ever before. His casual street silhouettes maintained their architectural and vertical construction but this time around they were more fluid and feminine as in long flowing folded or pleated panels for pants, skirts and dresses. Marten, who said he finds beauty even those things he dislikes, turned to his least favorite fabric — crushed velvet — for a round of tie-dyed cropped pants and matching athletic tanks that added an air of cool to the collection.

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