The Loewe show notes said the inspiration for the collection was Gala Dalí, the wife and muse of Surrealist painter Salvador Dalí — cue the oodles of trompe-l’oeil tricks, right?

But rather than go for obvious visual gags, creative director Stuart Vevers used the theme as a jumping-off point for an exploration of traditional Spanish techniques. Thus a black trench turned out, on closer inspection, to be made from thin strips of suede woven together like bobbin lace. A glossy khaki leather T-shirt came with three-dimensional appliqués of flowers and birds, inspired by the mantón de Manila — a type of ornately embroidered flamenco scarf. Meanwhile, a sequence of dresses and pencil skirts were done in panels of paper-thin debossed leather overlaid on black tulle.

Throughout, the decorative effects were nicely offset against military influences like flight jackets and boxy suede messenger bags with contrasting buckles, which gave the whole lineup an appealingly tough edge.

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