Nicola Formichetti introduced his new handbag line for Mugler on his spring runway. Handbags usually mean one thing — business, a more accessible way for Clarins to cash in on Formichetti’s major social media presence, not to mention his Lady Gaga connection. One style was even inspired by her derriere. For the show, Gaga, billed as “musical director,” allowed her unreleased single “Cake” to be mixed into the soundtrack.

Formichetti and designer Sebastian Peigne also put the clothes in a broader context than in the past. The main silhouette was hourglass: nipped-waist with short, flared skirts or skirt-shorts hybrids, fitted through the body with wide shoulders. Press notes said Formichetti had spent the year traveling through the equatorial regions, which inspired a tropical motif — orange and ruddy tones and slick, shiny treatments meant to evoke a heat wave. The plastified knife pleats on shorts and lacquered leathers certainly looked like they could induce a sweat. Otherwise, the pieces were in line with the Asian-inflected, futuristic tone Formichetti and Peigne have consistently plied.

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