“Canned Candies,” a series of portraits by Jean Clemmer of nude women wearing armorlike Paco Rabanne adornments, was the jumping-off point for the first collection by the house’s new creative director, Lydia Maurer. She channeled the freedom of the Sixties’ sexual revolution with skimpy dresses pieced together from Rabanne’s trademark “69” disc, which was reinterpreted in everything from folded silicone to guipure lace.
A heavy gold fringed number, sliced away at the sides, brought to mind Jane Fonda in “Barbarella,” while another one made from see-through discs — its skirt barely covering the bottom — seemed perfect for a latter-day Jane Birkin.
The lineup was rich in technical innovation, but Maurer didn’t fare as well with her tailoring efforts. Foamy-looking cropped pants, and coats and jackets with geometrically constructed sleeves seemed out of sync with her hedonistic statement.