For spring, Pedro Lourenço revisited war photographer Richard Mosse’s eastern Congo series, which was his starting point for resort. Mosse used infrared film that turns green into pink, most poignant with images of military officers.

There were no uniforms in this lineup. Instead, Lourenço worked the theme more abstractly, mixing feminine with masculine via soft hues (mainly a blush pink) on several oversize, slightly mannish silhouettes. While some of these pieces looked too stiff, the overall effect was graphic — particularly when the designer pieced together different fabrics and colors for architectural dresses.

He also played up patterns and textures, i.e., placing houndstooth details on a red jacket teamed with a draped miniskirt in a reworked version of the same motif. It had a futuristic vibe.

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