It was difficult to decode Marco Zanini’s message from his spring runway show. His preference for offbeat retro style has been well-established, and this lineup followed suit. With the Beach Boys on the soundtrack and the models accessorized with odd variations of white wrestling shoes — shown as ankle boots, knee-high boots, high-heeled boots — plus Space-Agey white handbags, a Sixties Courrèges current seemed apparent. But the clothes were a montage of vintage references with the big statement made in proportion play. As a total look, it didn’t add up.

The show started in icy pastels delivered on boxy polo tops over short shorts or miniskirts. The sporty lines of the clothes contrasted with the fancy fabrics, such as puffy cloque and taffeta. Many of the square tops were cropped — the midriff bare — and worn with wide pants or awkward hoop skirts that fell to midcalf.

Zanini had more success with the collection’s soft side, showing knit bra tops with filmy pleated maxiskirts and simple duchesse satin slipdresses. Midway through, the palette abruptly changed to navy, brown and deep magenta, which made a better match for the sportif set.

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