Backstage before his show, Roland Mouret recalled the Eighties and the influence of the era’s youth with a sense of nostalgia. “I was 20 then,” he noted.

For spring, the designer revisited that time and many of its codes, from strong tailoring defined by shoulder pads to graphic black-and-white patterns. He executed the aesthetic throughout, with mixed results.

From the first look — a red double-breasted jacket and matching draped skirt — Mouret worked a strong shoulder that sometimes added an unexpected dimension to the ultrasnug silhouettes he’s known for. While exposed seams had an artful touch, some of the complicated twists and folds appeared forced.

Many of the clothes were worked in mud-dyed silks and cottons for an effect that was practically identical to leather. A cool brown-and-black wrap minidress and an asymmetric maroon top teamed with dark green pants were especially terrific. They had a loosened-up feel, and also made a case for Eighties chic. 

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