Sacai’s Chitose Abe trained her clever eye for trompe l’oeil and illusion dressing on preppy classics for spring. While her game of making one cohesive look out of a masterful jigsaw puzzle of garments remains largely the same, it was nice to see Abe stretch beyond her staple kawaii schoolgirl looks — still well represented throughout the show — into more polished and mature sportswear.

The silhouettes were fairly straightforward in the front, with all the hybrid action in the back. Wide-leg pants, for instance, were cut straight from plain cotton and ballooned in swishing skirtlike styles down the back. Likewise the crewneck sweaters with trompe l’oeil shirt collars, spliced with lace or a sculpted peplum from behind.

Abe’s keen eye for classic color pairings — navy and green and red, as well as white and blue on great scarf prints — tempered the look’s wild side in bourgeois tradition. In doing so, she made the rather silly notion of hybrid garments a stylish reality.

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