There’s nothing like a clean slate. For her first collection after a three-year absence, Veronique Branquinho stuck to a mostly neutral palette of nude, black and white, placing the emphasis on graphic shapes and volumes.

From the opening lineup of goddess gowns — which came in pleated nude chiffon or copper lamé jersey — to the pleated dresses with geometric necklines and backs, the Belgian designer worked a subtle look of feminine appeal. Crisp sundresses in irregular black-and-white stripes were a contemporary take on the Deauville beach fashions made popular by Coco Chanel in the Twenties. A couple of masculine suits proved Branquinho’s fans can still rely on her for perfectly cut pants, but the more tantalizing story here was the play on volumes: extra-wide legs on cotton trousers, left unbuttoned to show a flash of leg; oversized armholes on white cotton poplin shirts (undershirt optional).

The copper accessories, including ball-ended cuffs worn on bare skin or clamped over sleeves, added a tough edge to the looks.

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