Goga Ashkenazi, Vionnet’s vivacious new owner, revealed just how implicated she is in the brand’s creative direction by taking a bow at the end of its spring show, scooping up two large bouquets offered in congratulations.
In August, Vionnet parted ways with its sister-act creative directors Barbara and Lucia Croce, after less than a year. Before the presentation, minority shareholder Matteo Marzotto said “an internal team, with Mrs. Ashkenazi’s involvement,” designed the collection.
Ashkenazi and company etched Madeleine Vionnet’s legacy lightly — perhaps a bit too lightly — via minimalist plays on her signatures, here rendered in tissue-weight jerseys and silks. There were takes on le smoking — from a languid white tuxedo suit to a sheer, bib-front blouse — and those draped, Grecian-style gowns with plunging necklines and the odd fluttering sleeve.
While soigné, the clothes could use some more finesse and oomph.