After taking a three-season break from the Paris shows, Wolfgang Joop returned for spring with a Wunderkind collection that was, in many ways, understated.

The muted pastel palette and natural fabrics (crepe de chine, silk, linen) flowed on bias-cut dresses with asymmetric hemlines and loose tailored jackets.

While the overall effect was pretty, the persistent layering of each look — some with cropped trousers, layered skirts and two jackets — made it difficult to appreciate the finer details.

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