Now in his third season, the Chinese-born, London-based designer enlarged his collection of wardrobe staples with a couple of leather pieces, including a burgundy biker jacket and butter-soft military shirts. Attention to detail and quality manufacturing have helped him forge some solid relationships with retailers. Fabric innovation took center stage for spring. Double-face construction, leaving one side of the fabric with unfinished yet elaborate frayed edges, was used for trench coats, while tailored jackets came in light cotton piqué shirting fabric. Many looks were anchored on full, sweeping skirts. Tops with trailing bands of fabric added drama to his clean-lined looks.

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