Christopher Bailey broke open a box of macaron colors for a sweet collection with no hard edges — and miles of English lace. “I wanted it to be very gentle, very tender,” Bailey said after the show, citing a quest for “softness” as the starting point.
Nowhere was this more evident than in Burberry’s cash-cow category — outerwear. Options ranged from plump cardigan jackets the color of faded roses to double-face Scottish cashmere or suede coats as languid as bathrobes — not forgetting lilac or mint lace coatdresses, some of them cinched with thick bejeweled belts or adorned here and there with sparkling rosettes. Bailey had employed a Victorian lace maker in Nottingham to interpret archival motifs,which he also used for dresses and pencil skirts, the latter of which were often paired with skinny cardigans or pastel pullovers with gentle folds or bows at the back.
After a few seasons of studs, buckles, grommets and other hardware bits, Burberry’s metal-free look was a welcome change.