Christopher Kane’s collections have lately become an outlet for his frustrated inner scientist. For spring, Kane put flowers under his microscope, finding innovation and modernity in one of fashion’s most common motifs. It was a state-of-the-art collection — light and uniquely feminine.
Making flowers look new is not easy. Kane did so by dissecting the blooms’ decorative potential, quite literally. Petals were singled out as large-scale ergonomic cutouts traced in shiny patent that gave a graphic, pop effect to silhouettes in pastel solids and engineered lace.
Shapes were clean, with a clinical quality that Kane savvily balanced with soft details. Some of the best looks were crisp white slipdresses spliced with organza sunburst pleats in pale green. Lest they be too classic, Kane made the straps look like those that fasten dental bibs.
More scientific and more playful were the floral diagrams on sweatshirts, tanks and pleated skirts. One black organza slip was emblazoned with the word “Flower” across the neckline and featured colorful, cartoonlike appliqués that illustrated the process of photosynthesis.
A fashion experiment, perhaps, but one that delighted in its formula of wit, bravado and sophistication.