Ryan Lo: Ryan Lo’s second outing at Fashion East was as brilliantly bonkers as his first, but here with a new maturity to it. Opening with a gold tweed blazer and delicate cream skirt appliquéd with laser-cut flowers, he showed that he’s capable of dressing grown-up women as well as kooky fashion girls, though he leaned toward the latter.

Romantic fantasy was the theme: a girl waiting for the man of her dreams in her dream home, wearing frothily kitsch clothes. There were kawaii knits with strawberry, lamb and pig motifs, and a flared pink and yellow fur stripe skirt worn with a lace camisole top that was pure frivolous fun.

Claire Barrow: Magic, voodoo, suns and moons, astrology and faces were the subject of Claire Barrow’s signature hand-painted motifs that appeared throughout her last collection for Fashion East, but they lost some of their polish for spring.

Using a spare palette on silk, leather, stiff cotton and plastic, the lineup was full of the kind of tough clothes that might be worn by modern pagan cult members. A rustic, off-the-shoulder dress had bones sewn onto it, while a sleeveless boiler suit was embroidered with gold and silver faces.

Ashley Williams: Ashley Williams flexed her muscles for her second Fashion East appearance, deftly proving that she, too, can marry creativity and commerciality. She referenced the Eighties and beach culture, and made a star out of Gary, SpongeBob SquarePants’ pet snail, whose image was printed onto a snakeskin print dress and bikini — which is more wearable than it sounds.

A retro “Dream Boat” print of a speedboat came on white swimwear and separates, and Williams played with raw-edged pleats, which were key to her new sophistication.


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