A fusion of Madame Vionnet’s precise bias-cut technique and concepts from a Chinese math textbook formed the basis for Huishan Zhang’s delightful collection, which turned out to be largely about smocking and lace. He took a modern approach to both techniques, using them to inject polished whimsy into ladylike ideas.

A white smocked jacket and skirt — both with ruffled hems — made a smart new day suit, but cocktail attire was Zhang’s most impressive moment. Two of the best looks — a smocked cropped top and skirt, and a long lace sheath — were neatly tacked with teardrop crystals for clean, minimal glamour.

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