Saks Fifth Avenue gave its giant shoe department its own Manhattan zip code. Now Mary Katrantzou exalted footwear with a collection using men’s brogues, sneakers and elaborate evening pumps as the jumping-off point.
Photo prints of the brogues were blown up to woman size or bigger and applied to relatively simple shapes: roomy jackets, jaunty shorts and bubble-shaped bustier dresses.
For the sneaker portion, Katrantzou pushed her techniques to the limit. Scuba dresses and racer-style jackets carried dense layers of photo-realistic prints on Neoprene and mesh — up to 28 panels per dress. Then she added 3-D effects — occasionally printed, occasionally real — including strips of bonded rubber and Velcro straps.
The evening portion was the most convincing, in which Katrantzou interpreted mules Marie Antoinette might have worn into tiny, teacup-shaped dresses carrying heavy crystal embroideries, and ruffles printed with ruffles. Still, finding women bold enough to carry off these densely decorated clothes is something of a Cinderella question.