The floor-length anorak with its dramatic bubble back and drifting featherweight hem said it all: Thomas Tait is a young Olympian when it comes to straddling athletic verve and couture refinement. The Canadian transplant also excels at modern tailoring, something seen on few London runways. He opened with a white, oversized garage-man jacket with defined shoulders and a beefy collar to cut the wind. He slyly incorporated other subtle active wear references into his minimalist fashion universe — a mesh funnel neck on a crisp T-shirt; a silver zip on a loose bomber jacket; racing stripes on sleek biker leathers; and a cycling length for slim shorts with jeans-style pockets. Straight-legged trousers in papery fabrics were slit up the back. This low-key show cast a spell with its strange colors — cement gray, acid green and pomegranate, always paired with white — and unusual elements, such as wet-look nylon fabrics. There were whimsical touches, too, in the form of wispy feathers drifting from the hem or armholes of shell tops, the throat latch of a leather jacket, or an earring. Tait is building a unique fashion vocabulary, and could be London’s next breakthrough talent.

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