Attitude adjustment. That best explains the difference between Tom Ford’s splashy return to the runway last season and his new spring collection. The aristocratic mansion was traded in for a low-lit room lined with mirrored walls, and the soundtrack moaned with Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Games.” As for the clothes, Ford dialed down fall’s overpowering statement to just powerful.
It was Ford in his element.
Craving a “strong, powerful woman,” he cast the first four models because of their shoulders and thighs — toned like thoroughbreds — outfitting them in skintight leather minis quilted in chevron patterns. With the exception of a brown cocoon leather jacket, a couple of sharp-shouldered suits and two very chic cropped furs, the clothes were bound to the body. Even the shoes and thigh-high boots laced up like corsets for your extremities. And that was the daywear.
In light of spring’s leaner, shorter proportions, Ford sought to dazzle with surface interest. Inspired by the paintings of Mark Bradford and José Parlá, Ford cast his finale looks in webby lace and multicolored metallic mosaic embroideries that lit up the room.