As Alberta Ferretti put it backstage before the show, spring was informed by a Southern Italy-meets-South America theme. “I wanted the woman to have a lot of energy,” she said, describing her aesthetic with such words as “colorful innocence” and “very positive.”
Along the way, the designer may have demonstrated all of these attributes, but she neglected to mention a key one — folkloric overload.
Ferretti sent out many of her looks in strong colors (orange, deep blue, fuchsia, grass green) often featuring screaming stripes and craftsy embroideries, one such example the ultrabright orange, blue and white floor-length dirndl skirt with a floral-bedecked cropped top.
Ferretti was more effective when she riffed on her theme with more restraint (relatively speaking), occasionally with a summery lightness that skewed younger than some of her recent collections. She made the point with the first few looks, all white except for their festive floral bounties, whether with needlework or appliqués.
Even if she showed the same look in many variations and could have used a sharper edit, the effect was artisanal with a distinctly southern Italian flair. At times, the latter sentiment swung a little toward Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicilian territory, but Ferretti’s version was less Fifties bombshell and more gentle.
The designer also embraced vivid hues for evening. Here, she worked several goddesslike gowns, including a languid orange version with flowers embroidered around the shoulders and waist, and another in grass green with beaded vines running down the shoulders. While the colors will turn some heads — even in the dark — their fluidity added to the collection’s light-spirited nature.