A tiki-style bar surrounded by jungle vegetation served as the backdrop for Dean and Dan Caten’s DSquared2 show, which opened Milan Fashion Week on a playful note. The vacationlike atmosphere — white sand-covered runway, cha-cha and mambo rhythms — didn’t divert attention from the collection, which mixed the brand’s glamorous look with a more mature, elegant style than the designers have shown in past seasons.

Looking to voluptuous beauties of the Fifties, the duo put the focus on the waist via dangerously short hourglass-shaped bustier dresses padded at the hips to exaggerate the curves. Elsewhere, ladylike puffed frocks were layered with yards of tulle, while another dress featured a skirt done in laser-cut leather petals. Cocoon-shaped caban coats were worked in glossy, bold-hued crocodile, animal-printed ponyskin and textured metallic fabrics, and paired variously with culottes and embroidered retro briefs.

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