Constructivism. It’s powerful. It’s sharp. It’s provocative. And in Karl Lagerfeld’s hands, it made for a captivating spring collection for Fendi, worked with an unexpected light touch that felt anything but fragile. It was terrific.
“Graphics inspired by the world of informatics,” proclaimed the show notes — though this was no lineup for computer geeks. Instead, Lagerfeld focused on textural play and precise lines, most evident in looks pieced together with contrast elements, i.e., soft dresses made of panels precisely mapped over each other in a spectrum of the same hue. The effect, while graphic, was ultrasoft and appeared as sophisticated colorblocking.
Lagerfeld worked his furs with the same ease, shearing minks in patterns against an organza base for tops, skirts and fur gowns. The latter was an unusual take on evening but the designer delivered it with whimsy and ample chic. Ditto the great coats, especially the navy-and-brown mink shown with a blue bandeau and languid skirt. It may have been fur, but the look was appropriately breezy for the season.
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s accessories played perfectly into the constructivist motif, with structured bags worked in graphic patterns and fur charms dangling from top handles. The new jewelry collaboration with Delfina Delettrez Fendi particularly dazzled with ultracool earrings that combined dashes of fur, crystal and Delettrez Fendi’s signature eye motif. They might just become the house’s new good luck charm for spring.