The ruffled petals of a peony were the starting point for Francesco Scognamiglio’s spring collection, which featured dresses in a bouquet of pastel shades. The Italian designer worked the inspiration into faded patterns and voluminous folded panels, which sprouted on everything from a flirty cocktail dress to a crisp white cotton shirt.

A black lace sleeveless shift with an apronlike floral panel in front looked perfect for concealing a nascent baby bump but will do other physiques few favors. Similarly unwieldy were the white lace gowns decorated with crystals and organza micro-pleats — the stiff fabric brought to mind a jazzed-up net curtain.

The concept worked best at its simplest: short skirts with undulating asymmetric hems, some worn with embroidered sweatshirts, for a modern take on the flower-power look.

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