Informed by Raku, the Japanese form of ceramic, Gabriele Colangelo delivered a confident lineup that was captivating for its textural details.

The silhouettes were often quite simple — folded and draped jackets shown with samurai pants, linear dresses and purist coats. The interest came via jacquards that mimicked the veiny surface of the Japanese vases that inspired Colangelo. These added a serene elegance, which carried through to chic sheared mink jackets and vests that also reflected the pattern.

At times, however, the designer took his Japanese influence too literally — the kimono silhouettes and the bold hardware on belts, for example — but the overall feel of these clothes was one of sophisticated Zen.

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