Designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron, now in their fifth season at Gianfranco Ferré, are solidifying their stamp on the house with an aesthetic that’s evocative of the late Ferré himself: architectural silhouettes, tricky tailoring, a strong Eighties vibe and a high-gloss attitude.

Piaggi and Citron, in the show notes, cited as key inspirations Herb Ritts’ campaigns during Ferré’s heyday, as well as the “magnetic hauteur and sensual naturalness” of Gia Carangi and her “extreme femininity that has no fear of assimilating a masculine force.” While it lacked some of the smouldering sexuality of the tragic supermodel, the designers riffed on their favored decade with looks ranging from a navy bustier jumpsuit featuring languid pants to a white shirt — with sleeves sliced open — topping baggy beige pants.

They still demonstrated ample complication: origami folds, asymmetric layers and much focus on the leg in dresses with slits so high there was little need for imagination. Wide obi belts added to the severity of some of the shapes.

While the duo noticeably eased up on the excess, further restraint will go a long way toward restoring the house’s relevancy.

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