After exploring the edgy Eighties power woman for fall, Mariuccia Mandelli worked “a new bon ton” for spring, according to her Krizia show notes.

The designer demonstrated the lighter turn with a sophisticated group of whites (a laser-cut leather coat was a standout), as well as punchy colors like deep blue and turquoise. The latter hue was especially potent on a body-hugging dress in a bold zebra motif, as well as a futuristic metallic frock.

While the spirit of the clothes was noticeably softer than in past seasons, Mandelli still could have shown a bit more restraint: A gold-plated leather suit jacket, decked out with gold-lace details, triggered sensory overload, while shiny HotPants were cut so short they landed on the wrong side of sexy.

That said, a few looks did have commercial appeal, most notably the ones done in a new abstract take on the designer’s signature panther motif, used most effectively on the bodice of a slinky navy floor-length dress.

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