Les Copains is famed for its expertise in knitwear, and the house’s spring collection ran the gamut from sheer textures to chunky cotton knits — often juxtaposed. The show notes cited Georgia O’Keeffe as the inspiration for a jumbo poppy print, but mainly this was a story told in black and white.

One example was an oversize monochrome plaid, achieved by superimposing two layers of ultrafine striped knits. It looked chic on a boatneck sweater with loose sleeves, paired with a black pencil skirt. Filmy sweaters that slipped off of one shoulder also had an appealing ease.

Less successful were the layering experiments with heavier gauges. A case in point was a cropped ecru cotton sweater worn over a crystal-studded white organza blouse and black shorts: Its mix of casual and couture was neither here nor there.

This season’s collection was designed by an in-house team, marking the end of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s three-season tenure. The uneven display suggested the brand would benefit from a single unifying vision.

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