Already seen on runways in London, the breezy, unbelted coat is shaping up to be an important item of the spring fashion season — and Max Mara had them in spades. The show opened with a past-the-knee slipdress and matching topper in a pale neutral, the first of many of these monochromatic “twin sets,” as the show notes anointed such combos.

The collection rarely strayed from its minimalist, urbane mission; a cashmere head scarf the only homespun touch in a quietly chic, if repetitive show.

Besides those roomy, buttonless coats — often as simple as salon capes — other sleek options included double-face cashmere camisoles, mannish jackets, trim culottes and pencil skirts, and streamlined rompers and jumpsuits with boxy, T-shirt-shaped tops.

With colors grounded in pearly shades, variation came via the fabrics and textures: linens robust and in handkerchief weights; smooth leather; mottled denim-looking canvas; sheer knits, and silver and gold lamé.

Then, two-thirds of the way through the show, the melba-toast palette yielded to vivid jewel tones, telegraphing how much color can change the allure and impact of the same silhouettes. (Flame-haired singer Paloma Faith, who arrived in a hot pink dress-coat combo from the pre-collection, hammered home that point.) Here, models also suddenly had their hands full with leather goods — a structured lady bag in one, a matching portfolio clutched in the other. Fraternal twins are definitely in.

Already seen on runways in London, the breezy, unbelted coat is shaping up to be an important item of the spring fashion season — and Max Mara had them in spades. The show opened with a past-the-knee slipdress and matching topper in a pale neutral, the first of many of these monochromatic “twin sets,” as the show notes anointed such combos.


The collection rarely strayed from its minimalist, urbane mission; a cashmere head scarf the only homespun touch in a quietly chic, if repetitive show.

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