Already seen on runways in London, the breezy, unbelted coat is shaping up to be an important item of the spring fashion season — and Max Mara had them in spades. The show opened with a past-the-knee slipdress and matching topper in a pale neutral, the first of many of these monochromatic “twin sets,” as the show notes anointed such combos.
The collection rarely strayed from its minimalist, urbane mission; a cashmere head scarf the only homespun touch in a quietly chic, if repetitive show.
Besides those roomy, buttonless coats — often as simple as salon capes — other sleek options included double-face cashmere camisoles, mannish jackets, trim culottes and pencil skirts, and streamlined rompers and jumpsuits with boxy, T-shirt-shaped tops.
With colors grounded in pearly shades, variation came via the fabrics and textures: linens robust and in handkerchief weights; smooth leather; mottled denim-looking canvas; sheer knits, and silver and gold lamé.
Then, two-thirds of the way through the show, the melba-toast palette yielded to vivid jewel tones, telegraphing how much color can change the allure and impact of the same silhouettes. (Flame-haired singer Paloma Faith, who arrived in a hot pink dress-coat combo from the pre-collection, hammered home that point.) Here, models also suddenly had their hands full with leather goods — a structured lady bag in one, a matching portfolio clutched in the other. Fraternal twins are definitely in.