Roberto Cavalli poured the glamour of the big screen into a collection with some of the smallest, most intricate embellishments seen so far in Milan.
Even if “The Great Gatsby” was fashion’s cinematic touchstone for spring 2013, the designer gave the hackneyed roaring Twenties look some teeth, via metallic decorations galore, and slither via snakeskin and reptilian prints.
Once the klieg lights finally settled, Cavalli unleashed his battalion of silver belles, the first model literally gleaming in a metallic croc pantsuit — a beacon of the designer’s over-the-top leanings.
Luckily, most of the silver elements that followed were subtler: rows of small rings piercing leather pants and knit dresses, as well as tiny beads, embroideries and sequinlike “Mukesh” embellishments adding flash to dresses and separates.
The workmanship was impressive: Taut leather jackets spliced together with whip stitching or hook-and-eye type closures. Particularly striking was a lattice of safety-pin-like metal rods that bridged panels of beaded chiffon, lending swagger and an industrial edge to delicate flapper tops and dresses. Mermaid gowns as tight as Cavalli’s seating were done in patchworks of delicate lace and chiffon pieced together in narrow chevrons.
Ultimately, the silver story yielded to blush pink, mint green and light blue, occasionally in stunning degradés. Like the clothes, accessories were a mash-up of “Sunset Boulevard” and “Mad Max,” with fur stoles, mirrored aviator glasses and gladiator stilettos.