Ideas of travel are always at the core of Trussardi’s design philosophy, and for her first women’s collection, creative director Gaia Trussardi riffed on the theme with inspirations ranging from David Lynch’s dark films to “a road trip through endless desert landscapes with a strong-willed, mysterious woman at the wheel,” the show notes stated.

The spring lineup, however, lacked the promised mystery. Trussardi worked the house’s core leathers into clean sportswear with a strong Nineties vibe — elongated boxy tops, roomy drawstring pants and a pair of napa overalls.

The feeling was often mannish, which the designer balanced with several soft chiffon blouses and dresses printed in a snakeskin pattern.

The real thing was also there — a black python-skin bomber jacket with beige sleeves, shown with a high-slit floor-length skirt, was a standout. The look added a tough attitude to the otherwise safe collection.

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