It was an impressive collection from Derek Lam, whose show at the Sean Kelly Gallery was the definition of well-edited — the pace, the number of exits and the looks all carefully considered with nothing superfluous. The clothes, inspired by Gauguin and Grès, offered special details, innovative fabrics, great colors and a touch of the chicly artisanal in modern, classically based silhouettes. “I love a woman who expresses her style quietly, yet with a definitive expression,” said Lam.

Well put. He opened with a new idea of gingham, graphic and grown up in large-scale checks on a range of belted tops and sundresses. Then there were new takes on crisp white shirtdresses, refined denim and a terrific woven plaid lace series, shown on skirts and ombré dresses that faded yellow into white. Other standouts included a textured white top and skirt with a fringed waistline, and a navy short-sleeve dress embroidered with chunky sequins from the bustline down, a confident and modern option for evening.

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