A surf motif provided the framework for Peter Som’s spring collection, specifically “Surf style goes below 14th Street,” according to inspiration notes. Those casual yet edgy implications gave Som permission to flex the sporty side of his aesthetic. The athletic beach bum thing has been in the air for the last few spring seasons, so Som’s Neoprene and sweatshirt shapes didn’t feel particularly new, but they were done well and looked retail-ready.

The strongest use of surf-culture cachet came in optical patterns such as a blue wave print on a long tuxedo coat, graphic black-and-white stripes on an oversize raffia jacquard Mackintosh and two jackets done in a patchwork of circular snakeskin for a rich bohemian flavor. To round things out, there were slim Bermuda shorts worn with precision-cut cropped tops, and a liquid silk crepe halter dress for a touch of overt femininity.

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