Since launching a few months ago with resort, Rosie Assoulin has received a great deal of press. At her first New York Fashion Week presentation, she was humble and excited — and admittedly nervous. “Is it too much color? What do you think?” she asked.

She built upon resort for spring. Working with luxurious Italian and Japanese fabrics, she mixed masculine tailoring with relaxed feminine volumes to chic and modern effect. For day, there were relaxed coats, slim trousers and a feminine ivory-and-black jacket with a floating sash.

The evening dresses and separates had a sculptural ease, but the standouts, included a long white dress with 4,000 eyelets that Assoulin and her small team cut out by hand and a hand-painted striped T-shirt gown, added a casual elegance to the lineup. She also collaborated with her mother-in-law, Roxanne Assoulin, creative director of Lee Angel, on jewelry and evening bags made of semi-precious stones.

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