Attempting to condense his spring collection into a sound bite preshow, Thakoon Panichgul went for the undersell: “I liked the idea of something more classic,” he said. “I’ve been whittling things down in the past few seasons.” He had considered what makes a great wardrobe — “a cashmere tank, something red, denim, lingerie” — addressing all of those elements in a lineup that amounted to so much more than closet essentials.
Working very much within the realm of real, Panichgul elevated classics with special, inventive details. Two white slipdresses opened the show; the first, done in silk duchesse with a golden sheen and discreet crystal embroidery around the bust; the second, a delicate cotton knit with beautiful lace details. Crystal chains recurred throughout and had a transformative touch at the back of a tailored black cloque coat and around the neckline of a white cotton shirt.
There were a few curveballs, such as a red patent bra top and blue patent skirt, which brought some edge to an otherwise highly wearable, ultrafeminine mix. Also noteworthy were the accessories: wallets with extra-long pearl handles worn like necklaces and thigh-high stretch lace boots.