One of Olivier Theyskens’ big consistencies at Theory has been street moodiness dominated by black. It still loomed large in much of his spring lineup, but this time the runway backdrop was a bright pink wall and the opening looks were styled with skinny neon shorts and tops peeking out from the sheer, dark layers.
The neon tease set up for the finale’s burst of real color — pink, yellow orange and white — shown in simple sheer layers for a long, lean look. For example, an orange slipdress was worn over a short yellow tank and two pink skirts, one long, one knee-length. The sporty simplicity of the separates and soft blend of colors was cool and surprisingly cheerful.
Brights weren’t the only new part of Theyskens’ spring story; the layering was also a strong throughline. He built day looks and modern evening options out of off-beat pairings. A bustier tank came over an oversize T-shirt and double-layered shorts, and a slouchy short-sleeved top, sequined midi trumpet skirt and floor-length white skirt combined for an unusual elegance.