Looking to the slick glamour of Seventies racing in Monte Carlo as his starting line, Tim Coppens took the utility of drivers’ one-piece protective suits and transformed it with inventive fabrics like treated furniture leather, cork and nylon-metal mesh.

Minimalist silhouettes punctuated by bold geometric seaming gave the pieces a cool, modernist quality. Black, white and gray were the predominant color schemes, with the racing theme referenced in colored panels of mustard and gold to connote finish-line flags.

In a first for Coppens, the same motifs, materials and techniques were distilled into a group of women’s looks, like skirt-and-top combos that were reworked versions of the men’s designs. The literal adaptation could have benefited from a touch more femininity, as the theme was better suited to the sleekly conceived men’s wear.

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