Switzerland’s St. Gallen, where Akris is based, is known for its exquisite embroidery and lace work, a point Albert Kriemler makes, understandably so, with hometown pride. For spring, he showed the level of craftsmanship again, with mixed results. “It’s a dream of fabrics and nature — moved forward through technology,” he said in his show notes.
The designer worked his intense textural play via several nature-based motifs — mainly honeycomb and algae, along with sandstone lines and granite curve patterns. The details here were impressive, although looks that played with transparency and skin — sheer insets and angular cutouts at the waist, and a black ponyskin dress with bodice that was half circle, half a jersey bandeau — were eye-catching, but not for the right reasons. The laces were loveliest when shown on elegant, form-fitted dresses that will appeal to the label’s sophisticated clientele.