With an invite that, once unfolded, turned into a pinup poster, Alexis Mabille made no bones about the theme of his collection. “Yes, she’s a bomb,” he wrote in the show notes describing his heroine for the season. “But there’s something virile about her.”

Inspired by images of Rosie the Riveter, Mabille reimagined the factory worker as a sexed-up Alberto Vargas pinup girl. That translated into a lineup of tough and saucy cowgirls, stomping their fringed boots while showing some skin.

The show opened with a khaki jumpsuit in washed silk, unbuttoned to reveal a bra from Von Follies — Dita Von Teese’s lingerie line. Mabille repeated the trick on other looks including a series of rodeo shirts, which were adorned with piped inserts and lace appliqués or embroidered with crystals. Cinched tight with belts to produce wasp-waist figures, the shirts worked well atop retro mini shorts.

As the color palette gradually switched from khaki and creme to midnight blue and mustard, the looks became calmer, the fabrics heavier. Among the standouts was a floor-sweeping corolla dress with a buttoned neckline that made for a strong eveningwear statement. 

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